Her name wasn't among the favorites. Nor is she known to the general public. Clare Waight Keller, creative director of Givenchy for just over a year, was chosen by Meghan Markle for her big day. Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Ralph & Russo, and Erdem were some of the designers considered frontrunners to design her wedding dress. The British designer's name, confirmed by Kensington Palace's social media accounts seconds after Meghan Markle stepped out of the car that took her to St. George's Chapel, surprised fashion experts.
One of the unwritten rules was that the dress be designed by a British firm. Clare Waight Keller is originally from Birmingham, England, although she currently heads a French fashion house like Givenchy. The designer earned the respect of the industry for her work at the helm of Pringle of Scotland and later at Chloé, a house she led from 2011, revitalizing it and transforming it into a benchmark for clothing and, above all, accessories. In March 2017, it was announced that she was leaving the label to take creative control of Givenchy, a brand with a much darker, somewhat gothic and urban character. Her selection to dress the Duchess of Sussex is significant considering she is the first female designer to lead Givenchy. Meghan Markle's commitment to feminism is widely known, and her solo entrance into St. George's Chapel reaffirms it. This stance aligns with Waight's choice to create her dress.
The designer, famous for her flowing and feminine designs, created a structured and clean silk wedding dress with a bateau neckline and three-quarter sleeves. Far from opting for a saccharine or overly traditional piece, Markle chose the minimalism of a design that made her the true star. The veil was five meters long and made of silk tulle. Hand-embroidered flowers representing the flora of the 53 Commonwealth nations adorned it—a significant international touch.
"After meeting Ms. Waight Keller in early 2018, Ms. Markle chose to work with her because of her timeless and elegant aesthetic, impeccable tailoring, and relaxed style," Kensington Palace explained in a statement. They added that Markle worked closely with the designer on the creation of the dress, which was inspired by a vintage design by the master Hubert de Givenchy from 1967. The neckline is reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn's wedding dress in Funny Face (also a Givenchy design, of course).
When Clare Waight Keller was hired to lead Givenchy, Philippe Fortunato, the brand's CEO, highlighted her ability to "break the rules and innovate without necessarily creating a revolution." That's precisely what she did with the dress designed for the royal wedding. A design that, while not particularly surprising, original, or groundbreaking, is also not traditional, but rather champions a contemporary and distinctly American minimalism (remember that Markle was born in Los Angeles, California).
"I want to design a wardrobe that women can wear without feeling embarrassed because it might seem childish or tacky; and show that a romantic silhouette can also be cool, strong, and even, to a certain extent, daring," she explained in an interview with S Moda about her work at Chloé. A principle that can undoubtedly be seen in the dress she created for the wedding of the former actress and Prince Harry.
While Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy's previous creative director, had brand ambassadors who were as high-profile as they were controversial (Kim Kardashian and Madonna, among others), it was clear that Waight Keller would associate the fashion house with more discreet personalities and a more elegant style. Dressing a member of the British royal family, one of the most admired in the world for its style, on their wedding day is undoubtedly a statement of intent and a historic milestone in his career. Now, the new Waight Keller era at Givenchy has truly begun.
